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  #16  
Old 11-25-2006, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChargerTom
Is the homemade TNZ stock eligible for super stock?
Tom Superstock, allows no thumbhole stocks.

You should start us a 1/4" club and a Squirrel shoot in the ultimate forum, like they have in superstock.

And then for anyone to post there rifle in the ultimate section they would have to qualify in a 1/4"-25 yd and a 13 mm-50yd.

Might would be a good ideal to require the 17's to also qualify at 100yd .

We would see just how many ultimates are really ultimates.
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  #17  
Old 11-25-2006, 05:57 PM
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What Rigrat said, I'm ALL in for that!

"Toms Chargers Rock"
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2006, 07:06 PM
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Got some targets I developed for my run at the 1/4" Club, 13mm Fun Shoot and the Squirrel Class Fun Shoot over in the SuperStock Forum. Would be happy to provide them to you guys to use as you see fit - Just let me know. Great thing about the "SuperStock Games" is three fold - Makes the participant a better shooter, is lots of FUN and tends to stop the "Fish" stories!

Hats off to Sawdust for starting the "Games" over in SuperStock!
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2006, 07:22 PM
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My hat goes off to all of you "master" woodworkers. I especailly like the Red TNZ. Now if only I could get one of you to build a custom stock for the 10/xx project. I'll even provide the pillars ! !

-- ale
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2006, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpsMgr
Got some targets I developed for my run at the 1/4" Club, 13mm Fun Shoot and the Squirrel Class Fun Shoot over in the SuperStock Forum. Would be happy to provide them to you guys to use as you see fit - Just let me know. Great thing about the "SuperStock Games" is three fold - Makes the participant a better shooter, is lots of FUN and tends to stop the "Fish" stories!

Hats off to Sawdust for starting the "Games" over in SuperStock!

Ops I'm at work right now in Singapore and want be back in until the 15th of Dec.

I'm going to do some more thinking on it , and will probably see what kind of intrest there is in it. Would like to get it going though , I just have to find someone willing to help as I am gone every other month.

I do admire the superstock and the superstock fun shoots. You guys have the right ideal, anyone can bolt on aftermarket parts and call it a ultimate, but can you make it shoot like one??

I do believe there are alot of fish stories, maybe we could call it the Ultimate shooter. And you have to prove the gun shoots to be classed a true ultimate.

And I think it would be alot of fun also. Great job Sawdust getting this started over in the Superstock forum , maybe we can get it started in the Ultimate forum so the custom stock and bull barrel member can share in the fun.
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  #21  
Old 11-25-2006, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigrat
I just have to find someone willing to help as I am gone every other month.
Count me in Rigrat. Let's do this.
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  #22  
Old 11-26-2006, 12:46 PM
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rigrat - Looks like ChargerTom has offered his services.

Attached below is the target for the 13mm Fun Shoot for all to use. This target can be used for the 1/4" Club or the 13mm Fun Shoot - My 1/4" Club target is a MS Publisher file, is printed in a 5x8 index card and does not convert to PDF well.

The Squirrel Class Fun Shoot target is loaded into the Squirrel Class thread over in the Super Stock Forum. Must mention that Rico is also one of SuperStock's "Game Makers" along with Sawdust.

Hope you guys get this started and let me know if I can assist. Good luck and may all your groups be "One Holers"!

[attach][/attach]
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  #23  
Old 11-26-2006, 05:40 PM
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Thanks Ops this should do nicely.
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  #24  
Old 11-26-2006, 06:33 PM
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its there a "jig" for starting up?

is there a plan for a jig so that starting to cut on the oem stock is done correctly? my world has "frame tables" that are the base for frames and altering oem frames so that it all ends up straight and level and true.
after spending the day looking at stocks, finding what i like, how do you make that first cut on the oem stock, the cut that will determin the layout of the rest of the cuts and the final outcome? i had the thought that the first stock should be a "mule" or a test bed that has many different adjustments that can be changed, so that the final project is the work of the numbers that worked the best for each person/stock combo, personaly im screwd here as im an a lefty, and that changes everything.
cdevon1200
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  #25  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:34 PM
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cdevon1200,

If you go to the link for $22 mod it shows how to set up to make the first cut and then route the sides for the new wood. The good thing about it is there are lots of pictures to refer to. Not really hard just a little scarey until you make the first cut and commit to it.

Don't worry about being a lefty. you can still do your stock just reverse the cheekrest.

Chargertom is a lefty if I rembet right and has done a couple stocks himself.

Check out the thread and let us know what questions you still have and we'll get them answered.
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  #26  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:39 PM
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cdevon, I'm a lefty too. And I don't have router tables, a table saw, or other shop equipment that would make this task easy.

First off .. which style of stock are you building? That will help determine how to help you with these cuts.

For the buttstock, here are a couple tips.

I do have a table saw at work. This is the method I have used, using a table saw to make the first cut. I cut a 2x4 about 7 inches long. Take a 3" sheetrock screw, and put it through the takedown screw hole. Screw the 2x4 block to the top of the stock, using the sheetrock screw. Then I take a length of 2x4 about 30 inches long, and I screw that to the 2x4 block that I have attached to the top of the stock. Put the longest portion of the 30 inch piece so that it extends out over the butt of the stock. Then, set the fence on the table saw so that the 2x4 can be held tight against the fence. Make your cut, so that you are just barely under the top screw hole of the buttplate, clear up to the wrist of the stock. You should be able to keep the stock nice and level, and cut a nice straight line this way.

Another method I have used at home is clamping the stock in my 10 inch wood vise. Once it is there, I use the edge of the vise jaw, and hold a 3 foot level against the jaw to use as a straight edge. Mark a line with a Sharpie the length of the stock, using the edge of the level for a straight edge. Then I clamp the foreend of the stock in the vise, and using 2 clamps I clamp the level to the stock. I use the edge of the level as a guide for my jigsaw. This allows me to make a nice straight cut.

Either of these two methods should allow you to make a nice straight, level cut the length of the buttstock. Once this is done, the rest is downhill.

I'm working on a stock right now, and I am doing it with the absolute minimum amount of tools necessary to do the job. I'm hoping there are guys out there who don't have a complete woodworking shop at their disposal, that can use some of the methods I'm using on this stock, as a jumping off place to start their own.

Good luck, and if I can help .. let me know!
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  #27  
Old 11-26-2006, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rigrat
Thanks Ops this should do nicely.
You are welcome and it is my pleasure. Good luck and I will will be keeping tabs on your progress!
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  #28  
Old 11-26-2006, 09:01 PM
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a combo of these is what i want.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1.../XDSCN2508.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...96-97-2500.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...e/raptorv2.jpg
the rear of the stock open like the last pic but with more billet alum, possibly billet bottom run, from pistol grip to butstock plate, the front very wide like the front end of the first 2 pics, with a billet plate or cap (hiding a tension screw?) and the bottom and sides of the front end will be very open, almost like the rear of a skelotonized stock, but again with lots of billet. yeah im a big fan of billet. i know that the lack of wood is light and the added billet will add wieght, and that given it will most likly have a stainless bbl, and given that i want "more distance from scope level to shoulder level", i think this stock will be aprox 2+ inches taller from scope mount level to shoulder stock center.. does the make any sense? oh yeah, it will have a wooden cheek piece that can be moved front/back, up/down.
yes it sounds like alot but thats what i do, over engineer things.

cdevon1200
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  #29  
Old 11-26-2006, 09:08 PM
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Two great stocks to combine! Sounds like you got a solid ideal of what you want, now all you have to do is commit to doing it.

I can't wait to see this one get going, sounds like a very nice unique build.

Just remember read and re-read the how-to's, get a drawing made of the original stock and then pencil in the changes ontop of it you want to make. Then you can transfer your changes to patterns to use to mark the wood.
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  #30  
Old 11-26-2006, 09:59 PM
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I suggest you take a trip to Home Depot. Mine stocks precut pieces of 3/4" poplar, and you should be able to find the right sizes that you can just glue up the foreend without too much cutting.

For the buttstock, make sure you glue the pieces together so the end grain looks like this ( ) when you look at it from the rear. This helps to keep it from moving.

Do you have a source for your billet aluminum? If not, send me a pm with thicknesses and sizes you need. I work in an aviation and aerospace machine shop, and I can buy it cheap.

Hipshot has posted many great how-to threads on cutting the tenon for the forearm, attaching the pieces for the buttstock to the tenon you make on the rear, etc. Make sure you check them out. They sure have helped me alot.

Keep us posted. I'd like to see this thing in progress. Sounds like an interesting design.
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