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Sling Hardware Questions

2K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  oldruger73 
#1 · (Edited)
Thinking of getting a sling for the 10/22 wood stock carbine and have been looking at sling swivels/hardware. I think it's down to Uncle Mikes and Outdoor Connection Titan swivels. The Titan swivels look nice. Will the Outdoor Connection swivels fit into the Uncle Mikes screw-in swivel studs and visa versa? The front mounting stud that fits into the stock band that comes with the Uncle Mikes swivels; is that really solid enough for a sling? Or would drilling and mounting two screw-in studs be better? 1.5" sling better than a 1"? My last rifle sling was government issued, I don't remember how wide it was.
 
#2 ·
The swivels and studs are compatible. The stud that goes into the stock band works well, I used mine for 25 years. I would recommend using a screw in stud instead as it gives you more choice where to mount. I place the rear stud about 2 inches from the butt. For the front I would get into prone and find where my support hand felt best and install the stud 1 inch forward of that spot.

Government issue slings tend to be 1.25". I use both on my 10/22 depending on mood. 1" leather 1907 or 1.25" for GI Web.

2cl
 
#3 ·
Good questions. I haven't seen the Titan swivels so I don't know, but I think the hole in swivel studs must standard as many rifle OEMs put studs on some models of stock - some even mold them into the polymer stocks.

Standard sling width is 1.25". It is the width that works best. I wouldn't bother with a 1" sling unless it is a leather 1907-type sling. (I have one that works great.)

Putting the sling stud on the barrel band will change your point of impact in variable ways depending on the amount and direction of sling tension. It is best to install a swivel stud into the stock.
 
#4 ·
Good questions. I haven't seen the Titan swivels so I don't know, but I think the hole in swivel studs must standard as many rifle OEMs put studs on some models of stock - some even mold them into the polymer stocks.

Standard sling width is 1.25". It is the width that works best. I wouldn't bother with a 1" sling unless it is a leather 1907-type sling. (I have one that works great.)

Putting the sling stud on the barrel band will change your point of impact in variable ways depending on the amount and direction of sling tension. It is best to install a swivel stud into the stock.
:yeahthat::yeahthat::yeahthat:

Bobs a smart cookie and we are lucky that he hangs hit hat here, freely sharing pearls of wisdom at will.:bthumb:



DrGunner
 
#6 ·
Are you going to leave the sling on permanently?

I remove my slings when shooting from a rest or bipod and bag.

For rifles where I plan to remove and reinstall the sling a fair bit, I prefer the Talon Quick Release swivels. All metal construction, stainless spring, and no cheesy plastic nut to fiddle with, just a solid push button:





http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Connection-Oxide-Finish-Swivels/dp/B00DTTG5IU

Here's a 1&1/4" nylon camo sling that comes with Talons for $21:


http://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Connection-Super-Sling-Swivels/dp/B00AE1X13S
 
#7 ·
Probably only use the sling on a seasonal basis. This is a "ranch rifle", sits in the corner waiting for ground squirrels to show up in the summer and in the winter I go walking around in the woods just to get out of the house.

I have to be careful asking these questions here, I end up spending more than I planned every time...
 
#8 ·
Actually if you compare prices, the Talons are competitively priced. I have them on at least 10 or 12 rifles. I have tried many others over the past 40 years and few, if any compare in strength and simplicity of function.
They are one solid piece and actually bind up less than those with a hinged hoop through the sling.

When you DO go to install the swivel studs, be sure to predrill with a large enough bit to avoid splitting the stock when you screw them in. It never hurts to install them dry, then pull them back out and put a small dab of epoxy on the threads before seating them on final installation.

Good luck!

DrGunner
 
#12 ·
I don't know your shooting style, but I will only add that you should use a screw-in stud, for the reasons mentioned above. If you have trouble with the attachment being sufficiently strong for your sling tension, you can over-drill the hole, fill with good epoxy, and then drill and tap into that material.
 
#14 ·
new studs

first I want to say thank you to you'll good people here at RFC. Never knew I could do anything different to a 10/22 other than have fun shooting it. got them Uncle Mikes studs, attached my old sling with some Q.R. swivels. plus a few other goodie thanks to all the good people here
 

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