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  #31  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:33 PM
defcon

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what if the wire is sticking up a 2-3mm higher than the nickle
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  #32  
Old 11-15-2012, 04:32 PM
ShootsAtSky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defcon View Post
what if the wire is sticking up a 2-3mm higher than the nickle
Sticking up that high it should be dragging on the underside of the bolt and causing misfeeds. But, if it isn't having problems and you don't see any wear on the end of the wire, I'd leave it alone.

Bob
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  #33  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:27 PM
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This thread helped me with my problem today without you all even knowing about it. I figured I aught to thank you anyway. That "nickel high, nickel wide" gage is awesome.

I took my rifle out yesterday and it FTE'd every round. Never had this problem before with my M60. I checked everything, but could not figure out for the life of me, why it was doing that.

I got home and asked on THR what it could be. They sent me here, and sure enough, this thread was a sticky right at the top of the page.

I checked my rifle and sure enough the ejector wire was straight. It wasn't even contacting the spent casing. I thought back about how that could have happened.

It seems like I remember back when I last shot and cleaned the rifle. I think I may have thought that wire was bent and should be straightened out, while wondering how it got bent that way. I vaguely remember straightening it.

I re-bent the wire back to "Nickle specs" and then took my daughter out shooting with daddy! Not one FTE or FTF with 200 rounds. My daughter had a great time. She's 9 and is learning to shoot, and is doing quite well too! Her BB gun training in the back yard is sure paying off too. Her first 2 shots with the .22 was a bullseye off hand at 25yds.

Anyway, if it wasn't for you and the guys at Thehighroad.org, today may not have been quite as good as it turned out to be.

Thanks!

Mike!
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  #34  
Old 11-17-2012, 08:54 AM
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Mike, thanks for sharing your fun day at the range! Give your daughter a high five from the RFC'rs. My daughter is 22 now and I need to take her out to range when she is home for thanksgiving.
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  #35  
Old 11-17-2012, 08:17 PM
mickeydim468

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I gave her that high five for you. She even got excited about it too. She said, "Really! They said to high five me?" I told her "Yes, They are proud of you too for learning to shoot with your dad." She got a satisfied look on her face and just said "Cool!" as she turned and walked away. LOL I guess, kids are just simple little creatures.

Mike!
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  #36  
Old 12-17-2012, 06:05 AM
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When the Nickel didn't work....

My 60 is 1994 build date. It had a broken ejector spring when I bought the rifle. I purchased a new lifter/ejector spring from Brownells in December 2012 and installed it. The spring passed the nickel test on height and was half the nickel from the inside lip.The ejector wire was so tight in the bolt that it would not cycle. After studying the matter, I bent the ejector wire down and toward the left side of the rifle until the ejector wire just cleared the groove in the bolt. The bolt now cycles smoothly and ejects loaded and fired rounds. Why didn't the nickel method work? My theory is that later model 60's have a feed throat with 0.188" between the feel lips versus 0.213" opening between the lips on older style feed throats. Using the inside of the feed lips uses a different baseline of measurement on the two types of feed throats. Feed throat height with respect to the bolt may also be different but I couldn't measure this. The lesson is to study your bolt and ejector spring clearance and adjust to get the ejector spring as close to the corner of the bolt groove as possible without dragging on the bolt. I suspect that a dragging ejector spring could affect FTF if excessive by not allowing the bolt to close completely and thus affecting head space.
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  #37  
Old 12-17-2012, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gawald View Post
My 60 is 1994 build date. It had a broken ejector spring when I bought the rifle. I purchased a new lifter/ejector spring from Brownells in December 2012 and installed it. The spring passed the nickel test on height and was half the nickel from the inside lip.The ejector wire was so tight in the bolt that it would not cycle. After studying the matter, I bent the ejector wire down and toward the left side of the rifle until the ejector wire just cleared the groove in the bolt. The bolt now cycles smoothly and ejects loaded and fired rounds. Why didn't the nickel method work? My theory is that later model 60's have a feed throat with 0.188" between the feel lips versus 0.213" opening between the lips on older style feed throats. Using the inside of the feed lips uses a different baseline of measurement on the two types of feed throats. Feed throat height with respect to the bolt may also be different but I couldn't measure this. The lesson is to study your bolt and ejector spring clearance and adjust to get the ejector spring as close to the corner of the bolt groove as possible without dragging on the bolt. I suspect that a dragging ejector spring could affect FTF if excessive by not allowing the bolt to close completely and thus affecting head space.
Thanks for your input. Coins are obviously handy gage tools and inspired this thread.
Prior to this thread there was almost nothing to help us. If you can relate your adjustments to perhaps a Penny or Dime, that would be right in line with the message of this thread. Most folks do not have measurement tools such as digital calipers.
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  #38  
Old 12-21-2012, 07:38 PM
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When the Nickel didn't work - follow-up

First, my apologies to Arrowdodger. I did not mean my post to be critical in any way of his original post. It was extremely educational for me and I appreciate it very much. I have a 1994 manufacture Model 60. To get the action to work smoothly, I had to set the ejector wire the height of a nickel but with the end of the wire flush with the edge of the left hand feed lip. I have the one piece feed throat which has a smaller opening between feed lips (0.188") than the two piece feed throat opening between the feed lips (.213"). If I set the ejector wire the width of a nickel inside the left feed lip on the one piece feed throat, the bolt binds on the ejector wire and will not close. I am posting this information to help folks who adjust the ejector wire the width of a nickel inside the feed lips and then find the bolt binds. If this happens and you have a one piece feed throat, try adjusting the ejector spring to a nickel high and flush with the left inside lip.
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  #39  
Old 01-26-2013, 11:19 AM
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No apology necessary. I appreciate the feedback and am leaning towards adding a comment to help define this Nickel coin method further.

When I build the KATs, I see many wire position scenarios as I dis-assemble and re-assemble those action assembies. I see (study) the various Ejector wire positions and tweak them as I go only IF they are WAY out position.
Some are even smashed flat . I have to do this, anyway, so I have successful test fire results.

I keep a Penny and a Nickel on my bench and use them as quick tools to check suspicious wire positions. I use the Nickle is a high limit .075 gage and a new Penney as a low-limit .060 gage. So anything in-between has been a good position so far. I am actually at a point where I can eyeball them "spot on" without measuring.

Last edited by ArrowDodger; 07-24-2014 at 04:02 PM.
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  #40  
Old 03-18-2013, 10:26 AM
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Thanks ArrowDodger i used your nickel, wire gauge ejector tip and now my new marlin 60, ejects the cci standard velocity .22lr's perfectly now.

James

Last edited by rascal17044; 03-20-2013 at 02:03 PM.
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  #41  
Old 07-25-2013, 08:47 PM
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I just bought a new Marlin 60 and went to range to sight in the Bushnell scope I mounted on it. Every other shell would not eject. I was told about the nickel adjustment, tried it and went back to gun range, shot 15 rounds without any problems, continued shooting for about another hour with no problems. Thanks for the great info.
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  #42  
Old 09-10-2013, 04:26 PM
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Does this technique apply to my '69 Glenfield Model 75? (The Glenfield version of the M-1 Carbine clone.)
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  #43  
Old 09-17-2013, 05:24 PM
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Well I took the action out of the rifle and it appears to be completely different from the action in the nickel pictures. One of these days I AM going to post some pics on here.
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  #44  
Old 05-09-2014, 05:27 PM
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Thank you Arrow Dodger! Used your technique on my friends rifle. Would not even shoot 3 shots without a FTE or FTF. So far 80+ rounds without any FTE or FTF. Thanks to Arrow Dodger!
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  #45  
Old 07-24-2014, 02:46 PM
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I just wanted to report that ArrowDodger's nickel trick worked wonders on my Model 60.

I was getting a FTE every 20 rounds or so, but have been 100% reliable since tweaking the position of the ejector spring.

This little procedure is so easy and quick to do, it will become a regular part of my cleaning.
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