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  #16  
Old 02-08-2012, 04:12 PM
Marlin60Man

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I thought I would add a little bit of a supplemental... I've been really working on tweaking my Glenfield 60's ejector spring using this guide, but it has the old style feedthroat and the nickle trick wasn't really given me the best results.

I found an article somewhere explaining how to adjust the ejector spring... I can't find it now, but it went under the title of of, "Working the Marlin 60s" or something similar.

In any case, what I've found works best is to get it nickle flush as is described here on BOTH the old style feed-throats and the newer model ones. Then, with the bolt on top of the action assembly, visible inspect the cutout where the ejector spring lies. It should be flush with the top of the cut-out with the spring, but should also press against the inside of the bolt a little bit and gradually come out a bit as the bolt passes behind the front of the ejector wire.

Just got back from the range a few days ago using both methods, and both rifles cycled FLAWLESSLY through about 200 rounds each (maybe, 480 rounds overall between the two of them), and a buddy and I kind of got into a high round-per-minute plinking contest with them even.
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  #17  
Old 02-09-2012, 04:56 PM
Eric0424
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Was this the article you were reading?

http://www.gunreports.com/special_re...1.html?type=pf
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin60Man View Post
In any case, what I've found works best is to get it nickle flush as is described here on BOTH the old style feed-throats and the newer model ones. Then, with the bolt on top of the action assembly, visible inspect the cutout where the ejector spring lies. It should be flush with the top of the cut-out with the spring, but should also press against the inside of the bolt a little bit and gradually come out a bit as the bolt passes behind the front of the ejector wire.
Would you be able to post a pic of the best for the Glenfield 60 like you describe with a nickle on it for reference??
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  #19  
Old 02-10-2012, 02:05 AM
Marlin60Man

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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJinNY View Post
Would you be able to post a pic of the best for the Glenfield 60 like you describe with a nickle on it for reference??
Good idea! I'm going to wait until I clean it next time though, but yeah, I'll get a pic of that next time I break it down.
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2012, 02:34 AM
Dano2467
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the pic's look to have been removed are they presented anywhere else?
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  #21  
Old 02-21-2012, 09:43 AM
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Dano,

In case no one's said it already. Welcome to RFC.

With a few exceptions, RFC doesn't allow you to post pictures directly, you have to post them on a photo site, then link to them. It saves lots of disk space on RFC servers.

AD posts his pictures on shared.com, you may have to set your browser to allow that address. Others like me use photobucket.com and there are several more.

If you see a pic with a red X, right click on the pic and try 'open in new window', or 'view image info' so see if it's valid but your browser settings are blocking it.

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  #22  
Old 02-28-2012, 04:18 PM
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Thanks from a nube

I was going crazy trying to figure out why my old trusty Model 60 was jamming up on every feed after I repaired the feed block. This nickel trick worked perfectly!! After making the adjustment to the wire even my cheapee Remington Thunderbolt ammo feeds perfectly.

Thanks, you are a life saver.
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  #23  
Old 02-28-2012, 05:08 PM
Eric0424
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the pic's look to have been removed are they presented anywhere else?
I can see them fine, if you're having trouble I can e-mail them to you.
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  #24  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:56 PM
Marlin60Man

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Okay, here, tried to get good pics of how to check with the nickle on the Glenfield 60... Excuse the cat hair...


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  #25  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:44 AM
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Myself and future thread crawlers thank you! Leaves no spot of uncertainty.
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  #26  
Old 03-09-2012, 03:59 AM
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Wisdom gained

Hey all,
ArrowDodger asked me to document my experience, so I am posting our PM’s and a little explanation.
With his help I found a VERY small rough spot at the face of the bolt where the ejector spring contacts the edge of the shell case (in the corner) AND a swelling where the retaining pin goes through to hold the extraction arm in place. I used a very fine needle file and a caliper to make sure I didn’t take TOO much off. I polished the filed surface and area with a Dremel buffing wheel. The results were remarkable. Details and maybe pictures on request, but I think you can get this. A properly aligned spring does little good unless the channel it is supposed to travel in (really, where the bolt travels over it) is TOTALLY unobstructed.
I hope this helps.
Terry
Our exchanges:
[Evening,
Thanks for the gauge thread, it helps. Possible I could pick your brain a little?
I have a 60 we have never used because it just doesn't seem to respond to ANY help for the "won't eject, jams the next shell" problem. Performing the nickel high, nickel wide check and adjusting the lie of the spring might have helped a little, but not much. Anything else I should be doing, at this point I am ready to start at scratch.

Ted, (sic- short for tedium27)
I would assume it is thoroughly clean around the extraction slots and fingers? Perhaps a finger is broken? Perhaps the chamber is too dirty or you have a burred edge there? Check the recoil spring and rod for straightness? I assume the action works freely without binding? Does it behave any better shooting CCI min-mags? Do you have another 60 you can swap out components with to pin-point the issue? At some point I would be happy to look at it and test out your bolt and action assembly on my gun if you like if you pay shipping both ways.
Regards,
Mark

WOW!- teeny, tiny little burr, right in the corner of the bolt assy. Put it back together and ROCK AND ROLL!!!! What a difference a day makes. Fast, slick (I use a micro ptfe lube). Tested it in sub-freezing North Idaho wind/snow storm and threw a full brick WITHOUT 1 single malfunction. Did not matter what kind of ammo I used. CCI, Remington, Blazer, good and bad it burns 'em all. Rather quickly switched to some round, liberated targets (orange colored orbs from the kitchen basket) and danced those things out to 80-90 yards with no problem. Cleaned her up, put her in a sock and scheduled a play date. Thanks!
I owe you man. Call it in anytime.
Terry]
p.s. Took her out for the play date with 2 of my sons and a great kid we know. Had the 60 and my 75C and a Ruger 10/22 (a nephew’s gun, ‘performance modified’). The difference between the 75C and the 60 was almost non-existent. The 10/22 wasn’t even in the same “second grid” over a 10 shot round. NO MALFUNCTIONS!
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  #27  
Old 05-06-2012, 04:57 PM
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I checked mine against the pictures as I was having FTE issues, it did need adjustment and a good cleaning.

Works great now!
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  #28  
Old 06-01-2012, 03:33 AM
CJ_74

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I accidentally bent my ejector wire while cleaning my action. I spent 2 years trying to get that old 60 working right again including 2 trips to the gunsmith. I never got it working again until I came across this tip. Now it works like brand new again. Thanks a bunch. Now an old friend gets to stay with me a few more years.
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  #29  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:20 PM
HeadHunterCW
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What a great thread! My Glenfield 75 has always worked well with high velocity ammo but never very well with standard velocity. Yesterday I looked at the ejector wire and it was much higher than a nickel. I bent it down to nickel height and took it to the range today. Around 50 rounds of standard velocity and low noise subsonic failed to produce one malfunction.
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  #30  
Old 10-15-2012, 11:43 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin60Man View Post
Okay, here, tried to get good pics of how to check with the nickle on the Glenfield 60... Excuse the cat hair...
Thank you so much! I got a '74 Glenfield Model 60 on Friday. The bolt was stuck, I took it apart, and cleaned the action, but when I hit the range I got FTE 90% of the time.

After seeing your post, I adjusted the ejector spring to look like your pictures, and I just ran 15 rounds though without a FTE!
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