Hey guys, a question for you all, I have developed a 4 spring kit which I have placed on gunbroker, search "marlin 60 795 70 trigger kit" and it will come right up. Hold on- I'm not trying to sell you anything.
My question is what is your opinion of this kit? Too costly? Don't trust/believe it? Too complicated, etc?? Great idea?? Go ahead and be brutally honest.
I just finished range testing my 1988 model 60 after putting in this spring set from Mike Carbone. I couldn't be happier. I like this gun but couldn't get a tight group with it's heavy trigger pull compared to my new 60 DLX. Trigger pull was 5.75 pounds before and 4.0 pounds after the spring set install using a Wheeler trigger gauge. At the range using CCI Blazer ammo the gun shot flawlessly and I could consistently get dime size 5 shot groups at 25 yards. Two friends and I all judged the trigger to be smooth and comfortable. I had no misfeeds or failure to fires. I don't think I need any further modifications. I have ordered two more sets to see what the springs will do for my friend and my 60 DLX's.
I didn't have much of a problem with the 60 trigger until all my other rifle and handgun triggers dropped below the 4-lb mark. After that the 60 was just a bear compared to the others, so it had to change.
I went from one of the worst triggers I have, to one of the best....
I also trimmed my hammer spring but did half the recommended amount. I've forgotten how much, but I only cut off like 1/2 or 3/4 of one coil. I then flattened the top of the spring with a file and stone
.....and have had no issues with light strikes (knock on wood).....
Anyway....just wanted to throw in 2 cents and say thanks....
I followed the instructions exactly on the sear including the jewelers vice, angle, micrometer, etc...
Once I got mine back up and running I put the cut hammer spring back in with a small washer on the cut side. Some more sear polishing and I am now down around 4lbs. It is like shooting a whole different rifle
The work wasnt hard at all, just time consuming. I was so anal when I did the sear that I probably took it down and reassembled it 8 times before I got what I wanted. Totally worth it
Glad this thread is helping. Good to hear you guys are getting the same results I was too. I worked on three sears at the same time in the beginning, using each one as a stepping stone. I would work one, check the trigger pull then work the next a little more. Tearing down and reassembling the action I don't know how many times to check the trigger.
I pushed one past usability. Found out too far below 3-lbs produced a lot of creep, and if one gets below 2-lbs it was a non functioning sear most of the time. Didn't even bother to take the sup-2 pound sear to the range. It wouldn't hold the hammer back half the time cycling by hand, probably would have been full-auto with live fire.
So, what's the judgement?
Leave the hammer spring alone?
Cut one coil off but put a flat washer between the spring and the bridge?
If I were going to trim the hammer spring I would start by measuring the total length of the spring with a set of calipers. (dial or digital) Then I would grind, file or stone about .050" off one end making sure I kept that end as square as possible. Next would be testing to see how much it helped and make to sure the hammer is hitting the firing pin hard enough to fire the rifle. I would continue trimming but only .025" for the next steps and testing after each trim until I got the trigger pull I wanted while maintaining a good primer strike.
With the work I did on the sear working out so well I doubt I'll want to trim the hammer spring.
I wanted to thank you guys for all the great information.
This was very helpful with my marlin 60, especially since the gun could hang from the trigger without firing. After doing the floppy disk spring replacement for the trigger and weakening the sear spring it now fires at about 4#
Next I'm going to polish all the rubbing surfaces, hoping that I won't have to modify the sear or hammer spring. Any tips on what to polish with?
I've been using Micro Mesh sheets when i wan to polish something, it takes little more time but I like the results. You can also use a Demel with the felt wheels/drums and some metal polish. I use Brasso on brass, stainless and aluminum or on bare steel if it won't be getting a finish on it.
Some polish with 1,200 grit sand paper but I don't really consider it polished like that.
Hey everyone, I'm new to this gun and performed the trigger mod. While having the action open I cut the Hammer spring. After trying to get the action back together I ran into an issue. I'm not sure what they call this spring but it keeps popping out and falling off. Even with the action put back together fully assembled. Anybody else have this issue?