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  #31  
Old 12-01-2011, 02:19 PM
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I did a little google on some trigger over travel stops for the 795 and nothing really came up except for some new trigger set ups.

I have seen over travel stops where there is a set screw in the trigger guard, a set screw in the trigger, one of the guys in my unit back in the day used to glue a pencil eraser to the trigger guard of his M9. We mocked him constantly, but he swore by it

Seems to me that putting a set screw through the trigger guard might be the easiest with the plastic housing. A little JB weld and lock tite would probably hold it all nicely

I am sure I am not the first one, does anybody have any pics?

Chuck
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  #32  
Old 12-01-2011, 02:23 PM
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I ordered a replacement trigger from DIP and it had one built in. I like it alot!

I have seen someones picture version of what you are looking for in our Forums but I can't remember where....

Check the above sticky on How I adjusted the trigger on my Marlin 60
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  #33  
Old 12-01-2011, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mdcmn7 View Post
are there any write ups on a trigger over travel stop for the 795?
Just remove the trigger assy from the rifle and drill a hole in the rear of the trigger guard, install a set screw (I used a 4mmx8mm), adjust it, and lock-tite it. I drilled the hole in mine by hand. It only plastic and is very easy to work with.
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  #34  
Old 12-01-2011, 05:35 PM
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Wow, just read through the 60 adjustment sticky and it was FULL of really good information, There were some great pics of the set screw. I was wondering how high up on the trigger guard to put it, and now I know

I just checked my trigger pull and it is over 8lbs stock. I think I will work the sear and hammer a little as well as install a set screw and see where that gets me.

I am not looking for perfection, just a crisper pull
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  #35  
Old 12-04-2011, 10:33 PM
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After putting over 500 rounds through my 795 its time to lighten the trigger.

Great information on the site, the videos and pics are perfect. I have never done any trigger work and this makes me feel pretty confident that I can get it done. I think I will still order a new sear and hammer just in case

I have found several types of fine stones ebay/amazon etc ranging from $8 to $100. Does the type matter? There is a triangular jewlers stone on ebay for $8 that looks like it will do the trick
Most any stone will work, I do recommend fine stones as it helps create a smooth finish while your working.

The stone I used was a Norton Ultra Fine triangle purchased though Midway USA. This particular stone polished as it removed the metal and will take longer to get the work done. I chose it to help reduce the likely hood of removing too much from the sear. I also know and trust Norton, their products have been in my garage for years.

However, any brand or flat shape (square, rectangle etc.) of stone will work and the Extra-Fine, fine or medium stones will work faster but the surface will be a little rough and it is easier to remove too much sear surface and ruin the sear. Although, if you're careful with the medium or coarser stones, you can always polish the sear surface when you've finished changing the sear angle.

Last edited by Eric0424; 01-07-2016 at 12:58 PM.
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  #36  
Old 12-05-2011, 10:08 AM
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I ended up getting a fine triangle file.

Last week I smoothed the sear a little, and cut a coil off the hammer spring.

Went up to the range over the weekend and had a hell of a time. I had 4 fails to fire which all looked like light strikes, but all of the other rounds that did go bang had good solid strikes?

I also had 3 misfeeds where the round didnt fully seat into the breech and got pretty well mangled.

I have another sear and spring. I think its time to pull it all apart, give it a good cleaning, maybe reassemble without the mods and see how its shooting.
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  #37  
Old 12-05-2011, 03:16 PM
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Messing with the sear angle is tedious stuff. A tiny adjustment goes a loooong way. Good job on having the spare sear handy. Try just the sear before you put the hammer spring in....
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  #38  
Old 12-06-2011, 07:14 AM
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Midway has a good selection of stuff. Knowing I can get replacement parts for stuff I mess up is a good thing.

What I cant seem to wrap my head around is why there is a good clean pin mark on the rounds that fired and a much lighter softer mark on the ones that didint? It doesent seem to make sense why the hammer or the sear would cause varying pressure on the rounds. They also shouldnt have anything to do with misfeeds

I am wondering if I put something together incorrectly, over/under lubed, too much torque, or some other odd thing.

After I shot last time was when I tinkering with the sear and spring the whole rifle got pulled apart and cleaned. Actually now that I am thinking of it, I lost one of the E clips on the action. I did replace it with one just a little larger that I crimped to make it fit?

Same ammo that I put 300+ rounds through a week and a half ago without a single issue (fed automatch)

I suppose I will have to do some tinkering, and then suffer through some time on the range to see if it worked
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  #39  
Old 12-06-2011, 07:43 AM
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Messing with the hammer spring would do that. Bet if you replace the spring that it would be fixed.
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  #40  
Old 12-06-2011, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mdcmn7 View Post
Midway has a good selection of stuff. Knowing I can get replacement parts for stuff I mess up is a good thing.

What I cant seem to wrap my head around is why there is a good clean pin mark on the rounds that fired and a much lighter softer mark on the ones that didint? It doesent seem to make sense why the hammer or the sear would cause varying pressure on the rounds. They also shouldnt have anything to do with misfeeds

I am wondering if I put something together incorrectly, over/under lubed, too much torque, or some other odd thing.

After I shot last time was when I tinkering with the sear and spring the whole rifle got pulled apart and cleaned. Actually now that I am thinking of it, I lost one of the E clips on the action. I did replace it with one just a little larger that I crimped to make it fit?

Same ammo that I put 300+ rounds through a week and a half ago without a single issue (fed automatch)

I suppose I will have to do some tinkering, and then suffer through some time on the range to see if it worked
I just pull the bullet out of the shell, dump out the gun powder, drop the casing into the rifle and fire the primer. It's an easy ops check.
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  #41  
Old 12-10-2011, 09:39 PM
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What I cant seem to wrap my head around is why there is a good clean pin mark on the rounds that fired and a much lighter softer mark on the ones that didint? It doesent seem to make sense why the hammer or the sear would cause varying pressure on the rounds.
If you clipped the hammer spring it of course reduces the amount of pressure applied to the firing pin when the hammer strikes. It also now has a high and low side on that end of the spring. The factory spring is bent and ground on both ends to eliminate most of it when the springs are cut. If the clipped spring wasn't bent and ground flat like it was from the factory that could lead to the intermittent light strikes if the clipped end is near the hammer. The spring will rotate some when the action cycles causing the high side of the spring to change positions on the hammer strut. This will change the pressure being applied to the hammer and may explain the light strikes on just a few rounds.

You might be able to cure the light strikes by turning the spring around so the clipped end is resting on the hammer strut bridge. The bridge gives the spring a full flat surface to rest against, as apposed to the two smaller contacts 180-degrees apart provided by the hammer strut. It wouldn't matter what position the high side of the clipped end is sitting, it will provide the same pressure all the time.

The light strikes are why I've quit working with the hammer springs until I can make a jig for removing a controllable amount off the end of the spring. I'm thinking if we could shave the spring down in .010" increments and keep the end flat it would help tune the action with a little more precision and control.
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  #42  
Old 12-11-2011, 04:55 AM
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If the spring is rotating as I fire, that could explain why it was getting differing force on the strike.

I ended up putting a new spring in place of the one I cut. Left the modified sear, gave the entire rifle a good cleaning. I also ended up polishing the feed ramp a little in case that had something to do with why I got a few mis feeds. Hopefully I will get some range time this week and see how everthing is firing.

If it is back to firing well I may look at the spring again
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  #43  
Old 12-11-2011, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mdcmn7 View Post
If the spring is rotating as I fire, that could explain why it was getting differing force on the strike.

I ended up putting a new spring in place of the one I cut. Left the modified sear, gave the entire rifle a good cleaning. I also ended up polishing the feed ramp a little in case that had something to do with why I got a few mis feeds. Hopefully I will get some range time this week and see how everthing is firing.

If it is back to firing well I may look at the spring again
Yeah, the rotating spring will cause inconsistent pressure to be applied to the hammer. This can lead to the sometimes heavy and sometimes light strikes. That's what mine was doing when I experimented with the springs.
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  #44  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:47 PM
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Yeah, the rotating spring will cause inconsistent pressure to be applied to the hammer. This can lead to the sometimes heavy and sometimes light strikes. That's what mine was doing when I experimented with the springs.
That had to be the problem. I replaced the hammer spring and put a few houndred rounds through it today without a single issue.
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  #45  
Old 12-14-2011, 05:10 AM
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That had to be the problem. I replaced the hammer spring and put a few houndred rounds through it today without a single issue.
Good to hear it's back to shooting again. I shoot a lot of Remington Golden Bullets and if I have more than 5-7 misfires from a 525 round box I know something is wrong. Whether it's dirty or if one of my changes caused a problem I just know it's time to take a look inside. When I trimmed my hammer spring I was getting 5 or 6 with each magazine, so I knew it needed a new one.

Last edited by Eric0424; 12-14-2011 at 05:44 AM.
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