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  #31  
Old 08-12-2006, 01:45 AM
LDThornton

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Quote:
Originally Posted by singleshotcajun
Been shooting 60's most of my life and putting up with the trigger. I tried LD's trick on weakening the trigger spring and what a difference it made. I will eventually do the whole trigger job but for now I'm just tickled.
Every little bit helps when dealing with heavy triggers on these rifles. Glad you got an improvement.....
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  #32  
Old 08-20-2006, 10:04 PM
Robie
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I did the work on the springs as posted ( to the best of my knowledge and ability) and noticed an improvement. It's a 'good' trigger now, not 'great', but a good hunting trigger. I'm pleased with the results.
I bought the JB Weld, but I'm not sure if it needs it. Is it an important step to improving the trigger?

Thanks for the insight and help. Robie.
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  #33  
Old 08-21-2006, 12:16 AM
LDThornton

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robie
I did the work on the springs as posted ( to the best of my knowledge and ability) and noticed an improvement. It's a 'good' trigger now, not 'great', but a good hunting trigger. I'm pleased with the results.
I bought the JB Weld, but I'm not sure if it needs it. Is it an important step to improving the trigger?

Thanks for the insight and help. Robie.
At least now you know that you could do something to help your trigger. The JB Weld trick will only take a bit of slack out of the trigger and is not really necessary if you don't do it.
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  #34  
Old 08-23-2006, 10:57 PM
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In addition to weakening such springs as the trigger return spring and sear spring as well as chopping off one coil from the hammer spring, I found that polishing the surfaces of the sear and hammer that engage each other did wonders for smoothing my triggers.

I started with some 350 grit sand paper wrapped around the tip of a small piece of wood (like a narrow popsicle stick) with the end squared off. Cutting small strips of sandpaper and working the surfaces of the hammer and sear until they are nice and shiny. Then I switched to 600 grit paper and repeated the process to polish each surface until they sparkle. One can even remove a small amount of the sear engagement slot on the hammer to reduce the amount of travel the sear makes to release the hammer. This is a sensitive step and should be performed in small increments and tested frequently.

Two of my 60s had such bad triggers you could hang the trigger of a cocked gun on your finger without it firing and when pulling their triggers they felt very rough and jerky. Now they feel very smooth in pull and break like glass, one having about 2lb pull and the other around 1lb.

Last edited by specter65; 08-23-2006 at 10:59 PM.
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  #35  
Old 08-27-2006, 09:29 AM
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ok I havn't done any sping work yet but. I did a tear down of the whole action and any part that goes from the trigger to the firing pin was highly polish and I got a very crisp release from the trigger as a end product.
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  #36  
Old 08-27-2006, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Tom
ok I havn't done any sping work yet but. I did a tear down of the whole action and any part that goes from the trigger to the firing pin was highly polish and I got a very crisp release from the trigger as a end product.
If you know how to tear down the action to polish the parts then that is definately what you should do first. I did the spring tricks on mine because I didn't want to take the chance on tearing down the action and not being able to put it back together correctly. That was the last thing that I wanted to do. So instead I tried tweaking the springs to see if it would help. A definate improvement was realized that I could live with.
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  #37  
Old 08-28-2006, 11:43 PM
Robie
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My Model 60 has a pretty good trigger now, due to the changes that L.D. suggested. I shot it at my brother-in-laws place this weekend with the new Bushnell 4X12 on it and got a nice group. Although, I only had an upside-down gabage can and my Bullsbag rifle rest to use as a bench. But, I did see a good group form with alot of shooting. The rest just wasn't solid enough or comfortable. The 'main' group was touching at 50 yards with alot of 'flyers' about an inch or two out due to the rest I used. I'll take it to the range and get it in a solid rest and find out what it will do.
However, off-hand it shot well and I'm comfortable with the accuracy.

Thanks to all, Robie.
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  #38  
Old 08-29-2006, 12:15 AM
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Newbie here, dumb question.... How do I find out what my trigger pull is now? Do I need to buy some type of trigger pull gauge? Thanks guys
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  #39  
Old 08-29-2006, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robie
My Model 60 has a pretty good trigger now, due to the changes that L.D. suggested. I shot it at my brother-in-laws place this weekend with the new Bushnell 4X12 on it and got a nice group. Although, I only had an upside-down gabage can and my Bullsbag rifle rest to use as a bench. But, I did see a good group form with alot of shooting. The rest just wasn't solid enough or comfortable. The 'main' group was touching at 50 yards with alot of 'flyers' about an inch or two out due to the rest I used. I'll take it to the range and get it in a solid rest and find out what it will do.
However, off-hand it shot well and I'm comfortable with the accuracy.

Thanks to all, Robie.
I'm glad it helped........Lonnie (LDThornton)
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  #40  
Old 08-30-2006, 12:16 AM
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Thanks again, Lonnie.
Robie.
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  #41  
Old 09-18-2006, 06:12 PM
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Thanks. I'll have to try this on mine.
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  #42  
Old 09-19-2006, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasanii19
Newbie here, dumb question.... How do I find out what my trigger pull is now? Do I need to buy some type of trigger pull gauge? Thanks guys
The short answer is yes. BUT! you can do almost the same thing by rigging up a harness from a string draped over the trigger, and with the rifle butt resting on a table. Hook a grocery bag to the string, and start loading the bag with canned goods, keeping track of the combined weights. When it goes, try it again a couple of times, then add a ~ couple of ounces for friction, string, bag, and the cans themselves, and you're close enough for government work.

If you do get a trigger pull scale, buy the one that has the indicator that will stay where the trigger let off. It doesn't cost much more, and it is lots easier than trying to notice where the indicator was when the trigger breaks.
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  #43  
Old 09-19-2006, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.C.
Hook a grocery bag to the string, and start loading the bag with canned goods, keeping track of the combined weights. When it goes, try it again a couple of times,....
I do similar to what CC suggests. Three cans of beer is what I try to set my trigger pull at.

Last edited by ArrowDodger; 11-25-2006 at 09:00 AM.
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  #44  
Old 11-26-2006, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbat
OK - I'll a ask newbie question. Has anybody addressed the overly aggressive sear / hammer engagement surfaces? If I push the sear manually with a small screwdriver (thumb on the hammer to keep it from flying forward) - it is obvious it needs alot of force to release the hammer. This seems to me (in my very limited view) to be where 90% of the resistance is coming from, no?

Mudbat
LD and Mudbat.....
in my super limited view also.... [i know im supposed to be going to work, but couldn't wait to try this]

i took one of my rifles apart. [the brand new one]
pushed the trigger return spring down as far as it would go with a screwdriver, to ''soften?'' it a bit, putt her back together, fired a few rounds out the back door, seems ? to be a bit better..... but as mudbat posted, the hammer sear spring, is one stout spring. takes quite a bit of pressure to release the sear. useing a screwdriver, pushing on the sear release slide bar ?
so ? imthinking ? figger out how to cut 2 coils off the hammer spring?
ya know ? some of this is starting to make sense.....
im still not exactly shure what the firing pin spring is. i think you are talking about the spring holding the slide bar that trips the sear ? correct ?

weet
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  #45  
Old 11-26-2006, 11:24 PM
LDThornton

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Only remove one coil then try it. Firing pin spring or whatever you call it is the coiled spring that is several inches long.
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