How I adjusted the trigger on my Marlin 60 (Drawing) - Page 2 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

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  #16  
Old 07-13-2006, 11:00 AM
LDThornton

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Quote:
Originally Posted by C.C.
LD: Thank you very much.

Looking at the illustrations, I am thinking that the "nose" is the slightly rounded part on the vertical piece that looks like it bears on the horizontal piece just in front of it. Reduce that gap with properly finished JB?

THIS one is going into my files.
You are correct. A little bit of JB Weld goes a long way. If you apply too much then sand a little off. If not enough then add a little more. A lot of trial and error but an improvement can be easily obtained. Just don't get in a hurry and always let the JB Weld cure completely before sanding. Be sure to rough up the original plastic nose first so that the JB weld will stick.
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  #17  
Old 07-13-2006, 11:11 AM
LDThornton

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesC

This helps too.
I have the triggers in my model 60 rifles set at about 2# to 2 1/2#. I made one lighter but found it to be too sensitive for field plinking and silhouete match use. I was doubling with the one I set at 1 1/2#. To get that pull weight I rebent the trigger return spring in the guard so it just barely returned the trigger to it's forward position, cut two coils off the hammer spring, smoothed the sear and hammer notch and put moly grease on everything that moves in the lower action. I've had no misfires with the shortened hammer spring. To raise the trigger's pull back to a little over 2# I bent the trigger return spring back toward it's original configuration for more initial pull weight.
Marlin's trigger return spring design is definately the cause of most of problem. The force needed to over-come the pressure of the return spring is why some of these rifles have a 20# pull to begin with. Many say that their model 60 has a great trigger pull right out of the box. Many of us aren't as lucky.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2006, 08:37 AM
milgunshooter

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I found the hammer spring didnt have anything to do with the trigger pull. I removed the trigger return sprign and weekened the spring on the transfer bar that the top of the trigger touches. Result is a short, crisp very light pull.
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2006, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milgunshooter
I found the hammer spring didnt have anything to do with the trigger pull. I removed the trigger return sprign and weekened the spring on the transfer bar that the top of the trigger touches. Result is a short, crisp very light pull.
Different things work for different people....there is no right way. I'm glad to hear yours is setup and working better than how it came from the factory. Mine came out the way I wanted also. I wish one of the sponsors sold a drop-in modified action and trigger guard kit for these fine little rifles. They could probably sell them to Marlin as a factory replacement.
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2006, 10:31 AM
waksabi

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my 7000 trigger is so poor. the trigger feel is terrible. like a blunt, blocky thudd. i cant understand how marlin could have made the trigger that poor. if this will make it feel sharp and tight, with a snap, im in.

i am about to sell my 7000. it feels like junk. i think that with a lower trigger pull, i could get better groups.
thanks

i agree MIL, the majority of people would benefit from a lighter return spring. that is a source of unwanted tension.

Last edited by waksabi; 07-18-2006 at 10:15 AM.
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  #21  
Old 07-17-2006, 05:05 PM
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OK - I'll a ask newbie question. Has anybody addressed the overly aggressive sear / hammer engagement surfaces? If I push the sear manually with a small screwdriver (thumb on the hammer to keep it from flying forward) - it is obvious it needs alot of force to release the hammer. This seems to me (in my very limited view) to be where 90% of the resistance is coming from, no?

Mudbat
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  #22  
Old 07-18-2006, 02:25 PM
CharlesC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbat
OK - I'll a ask newbie question. Has anybody addressed the overly aggressive sear / hammer engagement surfaces? If I push the sear manually with a small screwdriver (thumb on the hammer to keep it from flying forward) - it is obvious it needs alot of force to release the hammer. This seems to me (in my very limited view) to be where 90% of the resistance is coming from, no?

Mudbat
Yup, that's pretty much right. That's why cutting the hammer spring a turn or two and a dab of moly grease there helps, at least in my rifles. Messing with those sear/hammer surfaces can get you a very light trigger, a pound or less. That said, I don't recommend sear tinkering unless you really know what you're doing or have spare parts. A 2 to 2 1/2 pound trigger feels pretty good on my model 60's.
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  #23  
Old 07-18-2006, 09:43 PM
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Well I have neither spare parts or knowledge so I guess that means alternate methods. Forgive my ignorance, but it seems lightening the hammer spring by cutting out a loop or two would cause more cause more FTF's. Is this a non-issue?
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  #24  
Old 07-19-2006, 05:23 PM
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Model 60 trigger pull improvement

OK, you guys got me inspired to do this. I now, so far, have a trigger pull of about 40 oz. which is a helluva lot better than where it was. Here's what I did up to this point & I hope my terminology is close.

1. I did NOT mess with the sear/hammer geometry except grease it.
2. Trigger return [torsion] spring: replaced it with a Floppy Disc Shutter Spring.
3. Hammer [compression] spring No.28 : replaced it with a 3/8 dia x .041w. x 1.25 compression spring. It was about half the spring force however I added 2 little nylon flange bushings in each end to center it up and a steel washer to seat on the guide shoulder. Local hardware store stuff.
4. Disconnector (Trigger linkage) [torsion] spring No.15: I tried to replace that with a FDSS but it would not stay situated so I just modified the existing spring by over stressing [lil more closed] it as another Forum member suggested.
5. Sear [torsion] spring No.43 : I gave that a new anchor point by drilling a new hole in the side plate just below its previous anchor point [the Ejector/Lifter spring stud]. I also bowed that anchor leg to reduce the forces even more. This worked out great and its much easier to dis-assemble too.
The new drilled hole has a c'sink on the outside to help anchor that spring leg too. [Similar the the way the Trigger linkage [torsion] spring is anchored in the side plate.
6. Test fired 10 rounds with no issues. This is sweet. More to come.
http://hometown.aol.com/marklener/page3.html

Last edited by ArrowDodger; 07-26-2006 at 03:16 PM.
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  #25  
Old 07-22-2006, 05:51 PM
CharlesC
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Good work, I'd say you Got R Done.
As for lighter hammer springs: So far I've had no FTF issues with my two model 60 rifles.
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  #26  
Old 07-22-2006, 06:52 PM
Rick H.
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Model 60 Trigger Fix

Forgive my ignorance, but the Model 60 trigger assembly is the same or similar to the 99M1 and others correct? Thanks, Rick
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  #27  
Old 07-22-2006, 10:48 PM
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mod 60

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick H.
Forgive my ignorance, but the Model 60 trigger assembly is the same or similar to the 99M1 and others correct? Thanks, Rick
Yup--same as 989m2 and model 60. Bill
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  #28  
Old 07-23-2006, 03:42 AM
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Model 60 trigger pull adjustment

I shortened the trigger pull on my Model 60 by about 1/16" with interesting results. I have the trigger adjusted to a point where it behaves as a 2-stage? trigger.

This modification is an alternative to the JB Weld or shim/glue method and is easily removeable.

I did not plan for it to function as a 2-stage trigger but this is how it behaves when the adjustments get to the sweetest portion. The first pull (actually very light, a few ounces) allows the Interrupter to reset and the second pull (firmer feel of 40 oz.) trips the hammer. Any closer adjustment simply will not reset the Interrupter.

How I did this was that I removed the trigger and tapped a #6-32 hole thru the upper tang in it, from front to back, just above the pivot pin area. Then I installed a #6-32 x 3/4" button head cap screw there, with the head to the rear, sticking out roughly about 1/2". The head strikes the safety spring housing area on the trigger return stroke to create an adjustable stop. After trial and error of finding the best adjustment, I Loctited it. The trigger however was moved enough to make the safety unable to engage. To fix that I filed the little blade portion of the trigger that engages the safety spool just enough , perhaps .010", to allow it to be functional again. I will range test this week.
http://hometown.aol.com/marklener/page3.html

Last edited by ArrowDodger; 07-25-2006 at 09:04 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-24-2006, 10:51 PM
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Thanks guys for the trigger tips.
I just picked up a "coast to Coast" model CC 440
there is a JM with a circle around it stamped on the barrel, made Oct. 1969 is this true.
This is going to be my next SUPER STOCK project.


The trigger pull is 5lbs now & 3.5 to 3lbs would be sweet.
Thanks a bunch guys
Swiss

Last edited by midwest swiss; 07-24-2006 at 10:55 PM.
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  #30  
Old 08-11-2006, 10:10 PM
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Wow

Been shooting 60's most of my life and putting up with the trigger. I tried LD's trick on weakening the trigger spring and what a difference it made. I will eventually do the whole trigger job but for now I'm just tickled.
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