How I adjusted the trigger on my Marlin 60 (Drawing) - Page 17 - Forums

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Old 01-20-2013, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark75H View Post
Isn't this usually related to the amount of sear engagement and therefore a safety concern to make too short?
You are thinking correct on the bolt action style direct-contact sear but on the Marlin semi-autos, there is additional "creep" or gaps on both ends of the disconnector besides the sear ledge that you refer to. The disconnector is a linkage between the trigger and the sear.

This pre-travel does not bother me because I squeeze the pre-travel out until I feel the sear drag. This is easily felt in the KAT trigger when you know you are at the tripping point.

One cannot eliminate the entire pre-travel on the disconnector because it needs slight clearance to wobble back and reset.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dayid View Post
When using a trigger, you can normally feel "take-up" (the very low-pressure area before you really have to squeeze the trigger to move it), and then the "creep". Creep is when you are applying pressure and you have met resistance, but the trigger is still not "breaking" yet - it's when the sear is grinding/resisting before releasing the hammer.

In a perfect single-action trigger (preference...), from the moment your finger is on the trigger, the only pressure needed is the pressure that will make it go "bang" - and the trigger will then be all the way back (or against an overtravel screw) - vs having a little pressure for the first 50% of the pull, then more pressure for the next 30%, then finally getting "bang" and then having overtravel - the distance the trigger travels backwards after the bang.

In a ballpoint pen that is activated with a plunger to put the tip in/out:
take-up is how much movement before you feel pressure
creep is how much engagement with pressure there is before it toggles the tip in/out
overtravel is how much further you can push it down after it's "clicked"
Thanks. Thought that might be it, but wasn't sure.

Evidently, I got a good M60, trigger is slight resistence until it goes bang and then it stops. I know fairly well where it'll let go from experience, but it still surprises me when it happens (a little).
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:08 AM
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After reading all 17 pages of this thread, all great advice, I must be one of the lucky ones with my 60. Granted, there is some creep but I find the pull to be "lite" compared to some of the horror stories here. Maybe from many years of use (it's an '85) she's not too bad. I can't fathom the fact that some of you can hold the rifle's weight by the trigger and not have it fire. I have to measure mine but an educated guess would be that it's down around 3 lbs. at worst. I'm going to incorporate a set screw on the trigger to take up some of the "play" and work the seer to shorten the creep but that's it. No spring changing or altering.
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