I bought a new gun, or a used gun but used very little. Do you guys have any ejection issues. Some lots do fine other not so much. Will not pull the brass after firing. Don't know if it is the chamber, ejectors, . Took it apart and cleaned everything still lots a failures to remove the brass. They don't seem to be stuck to bad it just like the ejector just can't get a bite
Not likely to be the extractor as I have not heard of any on those actions. I use the lightest extractor spring and never have an issue with a fired round. However mine will not extract a live round because of .125 of bullet engraving. Since it is relatively new, the extractor cut/cone may not be cut correctly if the chamber has not been dinged by the firing pin.
I can't see a ding in the chamber. It is a cone. It's kind of like maybe the cone is too big and the ejector can't get a good bite on the brass. I don't know if the firing pin will reach the chamber, just looking at it. I run some new cartridges in and out , and there is a scuff on the bottom side where the pin is. Soiguess another question is where do you store your bolt. I leave mine in with the trigger pulled and closed. Maybe that is my problem ..
Last edited by Highdollar; 03-18-2017 at 10:08 PM.
Mr. Highdollar, I couldn't see the ding in mine either. Easy way to find out without some magnification is to look at the case when you pull it out. If there are any scratches it's got a ding you can't see. Killoughs sells a chamber iron that will get the ding out. Cost about 35 dollars and can be very useful when having cone breech barrels.
I have a spring coming now. Ordered a chamber iron last night. There is some tightness on the bottom of the chamber. The brass shows some scuffing on a pretty wide portion on the bottom. I have already cleaned the extractors and spring. Ordered a bolt tool to disassemble it. This new gun is getting expensive
Preventing a firing pin making contact with the barrel is pretty simple on the 2500X (maybe for others, I have no idea).
Get the bolt disassembly tool and pull back the firing pin. Slip a washer or something around the firing pin. I used a spring. This will stop the firing pin from exiting the bolt face. This was a very handy trick I picked up from Russ when I was trying to develop a safe dry firing routine since my 2500X is for silhouette rather than benchrest, but this is applicable here as well.
Doodaddy. I can't tell if the pin will hit the cone. When in the fired position it looks like it would be close. I imagine it will but it kind of looks like the suhl. Finally figured out my bolt tool and firing pin removal tool. Cleaned it all up and lubed
Last edited by Highdollar; 03-20-2017 at 09:52 PM.
If you'll look at my last picture, that is in the fired position and usually there is little to no gap at all. The gap in the picture is probably an 1/8" from contact. The firing pin never extends past the bolt face.
I keep the bolt that way anytime I have the Jewell Trigger on there simply because there is no safety and a 1.5oz pull. I don't have a cone on my barrel, but I'd still rather not dry fire it unsafely.
I've used cone breech rim fire rifles for years. Never an issue. That is because the rifles are NEVER dry fired unless there is a yellow dry wall anchor in the chamber for the firing pin to hit and that is only when I'm working on the trigger for some reason.
If you "loan" your rifle tell the other person "do not dry fire it" before you hand the rifle over.
If you want to store the bolt in the rifle simply hold the trigger back when you let the bolt down and it will not cock nor will the firing pin move. bob