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  #16  
Old 03-18-2017, 01:21 AM
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I've also wondered what a synthetic stock would look like with just mild bead blasting. I joke and say I wish I had a volume control knob on mine to turn down the shine on that black plastic
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  #17  
Old 03-18-2017, 01:27 AM
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I wish I had one to mess around with before a screw with this one. I haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle yet, so I can't give my opinion on that. I have shouldered it of course and it's mostly comfortable. The grip angle is slightly off for me, to my dismay. I want to wait until I have it on a bench to pass final judgment though. I found if I adjusted my grip slightly, it felt better. It just isn't my natural, known grip, so I'm afraid my mechanics will be off. Won't know all that until I send some down-range though! I'm really liking the stippling idea though; I may run with it. Also, the bead blasting is an i teresting thought too. It'd probably give you a nice, abrasive finish to grab onto. Next part in the mail should be my charging handle on monday and then my optics should be here soon! Then, I'll only have the trigger to go...

Last edited by Bluehawk42; 03-18-2017 at 01:30 AM.
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2017, 03:16 PM
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So, I'm curious to everyone's thoughts on an aftermarket v-block. As of now, aside from the receiver, my factory v-block and screws will be the only Ruger parts. What kind of difference does it make? Is there a potential for enhanced accuarancy. Pretty mich...is it worth it to invest in one??
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2017, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluehawk42 View Post
So, I'm curious to everyone's thoughts on an aftermarket v-block. As of now, aside from the receiver, my factory v-block and screws will be the only Ruger parts. What kind of difference does it make? Is there a potential for enhanced accuarancy. Pretty mich...is it worth it to invest in one??

Unless you go with a gunsmither's v-block they are all pretty much the same. Although certain ones won't work with some barrels.
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2017, 04:56 PM
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I'm not positive, but if you went with a Kidd v-block, E.R. Shaw may be one of the barrels they don't work with. I know they say not to use Green Mountain barrels. I would just stick with the Ruger v-block if you already have one.
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  #21  
Old 03-19-2017, 05:58 PM
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Ok, cool. If there's no real advantage, then I'll just use the stock part. Thanks! Should have the charging handle tomorrow and then I can assemble the action. I noticed that the stainless trigger pins are quite tight, btw. Would that be expected from aftermarket pins? I don't want to force them and mess up the receiver. A little bit of lube and light tapping do the trick?

Last edited by Bluehawk42; 03-19-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-19-2017, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluehawk42 View Post
Ok, cool. If there's no real advantage, then I'll just use the stoak part. Thanks! Should have the charging handle tomorrow a s then I can assemble the action. I noticed that the stainless trigger pins are quite tight, btw. Would that be expected from aftermarket pins? I don't want to force them and mess up the receiver. A little bit of lube and light tapping do the trick?

Yes, they are purpose made oversized so that you don't get any movement from your trigger housing. I've had a couple that I had to use the oversize pins to get rid of the movement. They are a little tough but they will go in. Try tapping them in with something.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2017, 08:00 PM
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Gotcha, figured. Just wanted to make sure before I messed up my receiver. I've decided I think I'm going to go with the earlier idea from someone of masking off existing checkering and giving the stock a coat of wrinkle finish matte black. Just picked up a can, in fact. I'm going g to working sanding down the injection seam lines tonight.
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  #24  
Old 03-20-2017, 01:48 AM
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I think you're going to want the Gunsmither block. That's one of the few things I still need to purchase for my build. From what I understand, barrel droop is one of the big issues/concerns when doing a build. I know I've never heard of a gun with the Gs block having barrel droop. Just my .02

Paul
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  #25  
Old 03-20-2017, 06:01 PM
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Dang, now I have something to think about! Might be a silly oversight to not put in the V-Block after all the money I've spent already. If it can potentially make a difference, it's and inexpensive enough piece. We'll see! In the meantime, just got my JWH charging handle in the mail. Again, very impressed with JWH as a company. Attached are a couple pictures. Stock, Cerakoted receiver, Volquartsen bolt buffer and JWH bolt, charger, pin and extractor. The action is already much smoother than a stock rifle, no question. It's all coming together!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170320_154812_1490050573502.jpg (236.0 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg 20170320_152611_1490050615613.jpg (161.0 KB, 15 views)

Last edited by Bluehawk42; 03-20-2017 at 06:07 PM.
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  #26  
Old 03-21-2017, 01:41 PM
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Smoother is an interesting concept.

Yes, as new the well machined pieces should float against each other better than a origional Ruger or a Ruger receiver with Kidd parts.. They may be even more accurate.

But a well worn in 10/22 is a piece of beauty. Yes you need a couple thousand shots in to get the parts to mate, but like compression rings in the old days, once mated they are super smooth.
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  #27  
Old 03-21-2017, 05:42 PM
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It sure is looking nice I think you're gonna have one nice rifle when it's finished. For my build, I'm installing the Kidd trigger kit. I've read that it is basically the same as their single stage when installed and adjusted correctly. Be sure to use a quality dry lube, such as Hornady One Shot, on the inside of the receiver and on the bolt, rod, etc. (if you're not already). I started using it on all of my guns and it really improves the operation. No matter what you use, you're doing it right and selecting quality products

Last edited by pspencer; 03-21-2017 at 05:44 PM.
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  #28  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pspencer View Post
It sure is looking nice I think you're gonna have one nice rifle when it's finished. For my build, I'm installing the Kidd trigger kit. I've read that it is basically the same as their single stage when installed and adjusted correctly. Be sure to use a quality dry lube, such as Hornady One Shot, on the inside of the receiver and on the bolt, rod, etc. (if you're not already). I started using it on all of my guns and it really improves the operation. No matter what you use, you're doing it right and selecting quality products
Thanks, I'm hoping it will all add up to a nice little shooter! Im a big believer in buying quality. I'm in the optics selling business and if there is one thing you have to know when you're trying to sell a $2500 Swarovski bino to someone, it's "You get what you pay for". I am still using a wet lubricant. Whats the benefit to a dry one? I would assume it doesn't gum up as much once you start sending those filthy little .22s down the pipe??
I've seen that trigger kit and wondered if it would be a better idea, for budgeting purposes at least. B-day is next month and my GF made the mistake of asking what I wanted...So, I told her! Kidd trigger it is, hopefully! Unfortunately, I made the mistake of also showing her the Volquartsen trigger kit for my Ruger Mk IV she got me for X-Mas. At half the cost, she may go for that one; I won't complain though
I decided to fill in the checkering on my stock, which I started last night. I'm thinking the high temp automotive wrinkle finish paint I'll finish it with will give me ample grip, especially for the bench-rest application I have planned for this rifle. Going to sand down the filler tonight, we'll see how it turns out; pictures to follow.
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  #29  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Zanotti View Post
Smoother is an interesting concept.

Yes, as new the well machined pieces should float against each other better than a origional Ruger or a Ruger receiver with Kidd parts.. They may be even more accurate.

But a well worn in 10/22 is a piece of beauty. Yes you need a couple thousand shots in to get the parts to mate, but like compression rings in the old days, once mated they are super smooth.
I know exactly what you're talking about! This rifle was extremely smooth before I decided to give it the face-lift. The action was slick, but the rest of the rifle was really tired. A lot of rabbits fell to this one and my Marlin 39A!
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  #30  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:18 AM
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The wet lubes do attract crud. In fact I haven't used wet lube since the late 80s. I started using eeze ox when I lived in Alaska. It is a wet lube but when applied properly, it works like a dry lube. With eeze ox, I made it more of a precedure than a lube. I would lube the points/components a few times while disassembled and wiping the oil in while wiping off all excess, allowing any excess oil to 'drain' into rags overnight, so it was more like a dry lube. The new stuff, like Hornady's One Shot, is just faster and keeps the action/bolt clean and smooth running for a longer period of time. You don't get near the accumulation if gunk when using it properly. The bolt face and chamber area will just wipe clean without having to battle stuff that is stuck on like what happens with wet lube.

There's nothing wrong with your choice for triggers Your gonna be happy with any of your choices.
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