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Old 03-03-2013, 10:15 PM
briesc

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Remington 550 trigger and ejection failures

Well, I plunked down some bucks for a rifle Friday, and find that I have a "project" instead. Along with a crappy ejection problem I have a trigger problem:

The rifle does not always fire when I pull the trigger. The trigger comes back, but no resistance is felt, and gun will not fire. The trigger does not seem to be reliably engaging the sear, perhaps? I can eventually get the rifle to fire if I release and pull the trigger again. Applying sideways pressure to the trigger (in either direction) might be helping, but not reliably. Any advice?

Problem #2 - ejection. The rifle seemed to eject okay for the first 30-50 shots, then -frequent stovepipes or the empty stuck to the LEFT of the round entering the chamber (away from the ejection port). I have since given it a good cleaning, but cycling the action by hand reveals variable resistance to pulling the bolt handle back (sometimes it goes back easier than other times), and sometimes clicking, but not most times (what's up with that??).
As you may know, the 550 has dual extractors left and right. They seem to be in good shape. I don't know enough about how ejection is supposed to kick the empty to the right - is the left extractor supposed to pull out? I don't see a mechanism to make this happen, but I'm no gunsmith. I'll shoot her again after the cleaning, but any advice is welcome, please.

Another question occurs to me - this rifle was a consignment purchase from a local gun shop. I did not ask about guarantee. Would one expect any failures in function to be disclosed in a case like this?
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2013, 10:32 PM
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Did you mess with the sear spring case??
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:54 PM
briesc

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No, and it looks to be seated flat, so I doubt it's cross-threaded.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:58 AM
NHDaveL

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Originally Posted by briesc View Post
Another question occurs to me - this rifle was a consignment purchase from a local gun shop. I did not ask about guarantee. Would one expect any failures in function to be disclosed in a case like this?
IME, shops seem to sell consignment guns as is; they don't check them out and don't stand behind them. I relaize it is too late now, but for future reference, the time to find out their policy is before you buy. If you bought it in the last day or two, or if you have a prior relationship with them, they might take it back. Otherwise, my guess is it is your problem.
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:22 PM
briesc

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Thanks, guys. I'm going to have to work up some courage before I mess with the trigger assembly...
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:49 AM
NHDaveL

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I also recently bought a 550-1, and have been in the situation of getting a new rifle with problems where I couldn't take it back, for one reason or another. My 550-1 works fine, but I did a little preemptive investigation re dealing with various issues that might arise. I can offer a couple of suggestions that might help a bit.

First, disassembly and reassemly are covered in detail with pictures in the J B Wood book on rimfire rifles. Second, RFC member rsv1mos, who doesn't seem to be active here anymore, seemed to be very experienced with these rifles, and used to chime in frequently on various issues with them. If you search his threads and posts, you'll probably find some help.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:20 AM
rsv1mos
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Chiming in.

The trigger assembly is quite easy to service, just remove the larger pin by drifting it out then pivot the trigger assembly forward on the smaller pin.

It sounds like either the triggers plunger or it's spring may be your problem. The plunger rides on the safteys cam and unless the trigger is tight, it may become canted and off the cam.

Or, maybe someone removed the sear cup and shortened the sear spring to make it easier to reinstall, a bad practice.

Look on the left side of the receiver, you should see a round inspection port that shows the position of the "connector" on the trigger assembly and the lip of the sear. These should be very close to each other, if not actually touching.

Yes, the model 550 has two "extractors" unlike the model 550-1 which has just one.

The inside "extractor" is more of an ejector. It is spring loaded and has a "nub" not a claw. It acts to flip the extracted round out of the action. The outside extractor actually does aid in the extraction of the round and has a claw, although blow-back from the fired round does most of the work. On the model 550 the actual ejector is a cut on the receiver insert that flips the case out of the action. On the 550-1 the ejector is milled into a slot on the left side of the receiver.

Clean these extractors well with Gunscrubber and that will help eject the spent rounds.

Last edited by rsv1mos; 03-06-2013 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:56 AM
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Chiming in.
I am happy to have my statement of your not still being active here proven wrong.

briesc - From the research I did previously, it appears to me that rsv1mos is as knowledgeable on these as anyone around. I would pay very close attention to his advice.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:31 PM
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Thanks, guys. I'm going to have to work up some courage before I mess with the trigger assembly...
Let me give you a tip:

MAKE DETAILED SKETCHES AND NOTES OF EVERYTHING YOU DO.

If you aren't intimately familiar with rimfire actions.....the 550 is VERY challenging.

You CAN do it.....but you have to take very detailed notes.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NHDaveL View Post
I am happy to have my statement of your not still being active here proven wrong.

briesc - From the research I did previously, it appears to me that rsv1mos is as knowledgeable on these as anyone around. I would pay very close attention to his advice.

Indeed!! RSV is about as close to the Yoda of the 550 as you can get.....
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:15 PM
briesc

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I'm cleaning her up first (got some Gunscrubber), then I'll take her out and report back before taking more steps. Thanks MUCH for the advice. I'll follow it closely and let you know how things are going.
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:00 PM
briesc

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remington 550 failure to eject

After cleaning action, including extractors, with gunscrubber and relubricating with rem oil, I tried several different types of ammo (high-vel, std vel, hyper vel, even some shorts), They all fail to eject, same as before. Any ideas?
Thanks.
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Old 04-06-2013, 06:38 AM
rsv1mos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briesc View Post
After cleaning action, including extractors, with gunscrubber and relubricating with rem oil, I tried several different types of ammo (high-vel, std vel, hyper vel, even some shorts), They all fail to eject, same as before. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Ok, you have the model 550 with the dual "extractors". Does it extract the spent round from the chamber? If so, and it "stovepipes" (get's caught by the bolt half in and half out of the action) then you may have a bad receiver insert.

Ejection is accomplished by a small cut on the receiver inserts right hand side. Looks like an arrow head. This cut can become worn and not eject the spent round.

I would check:

1. That the outside extractor has a sharp claw and the inside extractor has a spring loaded nub and that they both work freely.

2. The action springs. Ensure they are original. Numrich sells the wrong springs for these. Your springs are probably correct as you are getting the same results even with hyper velocity rounds. (not recommended.)

3. Ensure that the receiver insert is installed correctly. It's position is determined by the bushing. Ensure the bushing is seated properly inside the insert.

4. Is there a burr on the floating chamber? Is the chamber free to move? Can you put a live round in the chamber and freely extract it?

5. Will it eject the live round when hand cycled. Be careful doing this. . Outside, gun pointed in a safe direction.

6. Is the carrier/cartridge stop assembly clean and free to move?
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2013, 05:20 PM
Grayrock
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I needed to replace the firing pin. The new one needs fitting. How far should it protrude from the breech face? What keeps it rearward when in battery and NOT being fired? Also- what is the proper contour for the "face" of the firing pin- flat or tapered?
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:12 AM
rsv1mos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayrock View Post
I needed to replace the firing pin. The new one needs fitting. How far should it protrude from the breech face? What keeps it rearward when in battery and NOT being fired? Also- what is the proper contour for the "face" of the firing pin- flat or tapered?
Firing pin protrusion should be around .038 - .040. The tip of the firing pin should be tapered with a flat, not sharp end.

The lip of the sear holds the firing pin back when cocked.

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